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Old 03-29-2011, 05:07 PM   #1
Joey's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Liberty Twp, OH
Posts: 222
Default LR Good info D1/D2

Not sure where I found this:

Can't shift out of park - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Land Rover Discovery and 1995 Range Rover Classic
Check to see if you have stoplights. No lights check:
a. Fuse f1 in the fascia fuse box ok? (Discovery, if the fuse the blows check the terminals on the back window grids making sure they are not touching each other causing a short. They get bent easily)
b. Inspect the brake light switch on the brake pedal (The brake light switch has four wires on it and the cruise switch has two wires and a vacuum line on it).
If switch is intact:
a. Jump the green/purple wire and the green/orange wire; the brake lights should come on enabling the shift out of park.
b. Caution! The brake lights will be on all the time. Have problem repaired as soon as possible. Also you may get an ABS fault stored.
If you have stoplights pop the top of the shift lever off and check to see if the clip on the button is intact. They have been known to come off and not lift the rod in the handle.
1992-1994 Range Rover Classic:
Same as above except: Dash fuse box fuse# B1 and jump wires: white/purple and green/purple at brake light switch #AMR2010G.
Engine Overheat Check List - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - All
Does the cooling system lose fluid? Pressure test for leaks.
• Check for obstructions of airflow thru the radiator. Especially check between the radiator and the a/c condenser.
• Check operation of the auxiliary fans (they should come on when the a/c is on).
• Check the operation of the fan viscous coupling. It should not be freewheeling when the engine is hot. It also should not be locked up solid.
• Inspect the water pump making sure there is no play in the shaft.
• Remove the engine thermostat and see if it is stuck half open. You can test it by warming it in a pan of water on the stove and see what temperature it opens. It should open fully at around 185F.
If all of the above check ok the radiator can have restricted flow internally. This needs to be checked by a radiator shop. What happens is that the ends of the core tubes get deposits built up on them and the coolant can’t flow thru. It then needs to be reamed out or the core replaced.
Exhaust Rattle - Catalytic Converter - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Range Rover, Discovery, Defender
If you hear a rattling noise under the center of your vehicle, it is likely that one of the catalysts is the source of the noise. The rattling is usually most noticeable when the vehicle is warm and at idle.
Take your Rover to a garage and get it up on a lift so the source of the rattle can be pinpointed. If the matrix inside the catalyst has broken loose, the unit will rattle and should be replaced. Atlantic British offers replacement catalysts for all of the vehicles. Call for price and availability.
Fog Lights - Installation
Vehicle - Land Rover Discovery
For 1996 vehicles on- Remove left switch panel and install relay in the empty five-way white rely socket and plug in switch to wires located behind the blanking plug on the dash, next to the cruise control switch. Install new air dam and light assembly and plug into existing wire harness located behind headlights, accessed under the hood. Wires are the same color as the wires on the new fog lamps. Powered only on low beam with the head lights on. Item part #YWB10027L - Relay for fog lamps.
Ground-based Electrical Problems - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Discovery 1994-1996
Poor grounds can cause numerous problems on a 1994 - 1996 Discovery. The following are main ground locations and the components they affect. To clean the contact surface, remove the fastener and use a wire brush to clean the post, connector and nut as needed. Spraying on a little contact cleaner may help, too. If the contact point is painted, a star washer can also be added to improve the connection.
Check these ground locations:
1. Right inner fender, behind the battery. Battery and EMC on 1994 & 1995 models.
2. Below the battery, inside the right frame rail. Battery ground.
3. Right of the left cylinder head. ECU, AC compressor clutch on 1994 & 1995 models.
4. Right frame rail, inside wheel well. Starter.
5. Left footwell, behind trim panel. ECM, key switch, radio, OBDII data link.
6. Right footwell, behind trim panel. Starter solenoid relay, park-neutral position switch, alarm, data link connector.
7. Left side of luggage compartment, behind access panel for taillights, above light assembly. Fuel pump, fuel level sensor.
Halogen Replacement Bulbs - Tech Tip
Vehicle - All
Many of the original equipment and after-market lamps (such as Hella) have replacement halogen bulbs. Be very careful when handling these bulbs. DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS. Oil from your skin can cause hot spots on the bulb and will cause it to burn out very quickly. Cleaning the bulbs with alcohol prior to installation is a worthwhile precaution.
Hard Starting - Cold Weather - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Range Rover, Discovery, Land Rover Defender
There is a service bulletin circulating at the Range Rover Dealers that you should know about. It suggests that you consider placing 5W-40W oil in your vehicle if you live in a cold climate. This will allow the starter to turn faster and help eliminate flooding problems in cold start situations. Move back to a 10W-40 or 20W-50 in warmer climates and in the summer.
Hard Starting - Ignition Wires - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Land Rover Discovery
The Discovery original equipment ignition wires have been known to fail. We recommend that you put on new wires and be sure to re-route the coil wire away from the power steering reservoir in the Discovery. This is one of the first places that the wires arc.
Hose Kits - Tech Tip
Vehicle - All
Fall and winter is a good time to examine your hoses for wear, as hot summer temperatures put more stress on the rubber, which doesn't dissipate heat very efficiently. If you see splits, cracks or other "warning signs", take advantage of our special kit price and buy all your hoses at once, because chances are good that if one hose shows wear, they all will. Besides, it pays to replace them all at the same time, rather than lay-up your vehicle for another day when the next one fails. (Note: our Range Rover and Defender hose kits include the heater hoses, while our Series Land Rover kits do not.) Call toll-free 1-800-533-2210.
Hot Running Problems
Vehicle - Classic, Defender, Discovery I
If your engine falters and stops when it's running hot, either in hot weather or in demanding conditions, it may be due to a failed amplifier module. Land Rover engineers located this module atop the distributor, where it has been known to collect too much heat and fail. What you need is an Amplifier Module Relocation Kit, which moves the part off the distributor and into a cooler part of the engine compartment.
Hot Start Problems
Vehicle - Range Rover Classic, Discovery I, 4.0/4.6, Defender
If you're experiencing occasional hot start problems (the vehicle will not start when the engine gets too hot) you may have to replace your fuel temperature sensor. This sensor may be giving your engine too much or too little fuel, resulting in a poor start - or no start at all! Replace your fuel temperature sensor and see if that doesn't help. (The same sensor is used by all of the above vehicles.)
Hydraulic Fluid - Tech Tip
Vehicle - All
Be sure to use only Castrol Brake Fluid in both your clutch and brake systems to prevent seal failures. The DOT 3-4 rating has nothing to do with the fluid's compatibility with your Rover's hydraulic system. If you take your Rover to a local shop for repair, insist on Castrol Brake Fluid. Better yet, buy it direct from us and bring it with you (Item# 2501) pint, (Item# 2521) quart.
Remote Programming - Single Button - Tech Tip
Vehicle - 1994 and 1995 Range Rover Classic, 1994 and 1995 Discovery I
Note: Must be carried out in 8 seconds to access learn mode. Best done with two people. You should have both remotes available or second one will not work.
• Open hood and have assistant hold hood alarm switch down.
• From inside car with all doors closed, ignition off and all lock buttons up
• Turn ignition on then off
• Cycle drivers door button down then up
• Assistant now releases hood switch
• Turn ignition on then off
• If done correctly, horn will beep once and dash LED will light up. This indicates the learn mode has been accessed. If this doesn’t happen repeat 1 thru 6.
• From inside car push and hold first remote. The dash LED should flash 8 cycles a second for one second indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat steps 1 thru 6 again.
Push and hold the second remote if the code is received the dash LED will flash 8 cycles indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat 1 thru 8 again. Note: Turn the ignition on at any time will cancel the learning process. The system can only store two remote codes and must be done at the same time. If you only have one remote program it twice.

Right or Left? - Tech Tip
Vehicle - All
What do we mean by left and right? Any parts described as left or right would be determined as you are seated in the driver's seat of the vehicle. Therefore, here in the United States, the driver side of the vehicle is always LEFT and the passenger side is always RIGHT.
Serpentine Belt Routing - Maintenance
Vehicle - Discovery 1994-1999
Have you removed the belt and can't remember how it goes?

Serpentine Belt Routing - Maintenance
Vehicle - Discovery Series II 1999-2000
Have you removed the belt and can't remember how it goes?

Without Active Cornering:

With Active Cornering:

Squeaking going over small bumps - Maintenance
Vehicle - Rover Classics, Discovery I and Defender with factory sway bars.
Do you have an annoying squeak going over small bumps or when you get out of your car and it moves slightly? Inspect the ball joints on the links between the front or rear axles and the sway bar at each axle. If there is rust coming out of the boot the ball joint is worn out and must be replaced. Replace the links in pairs. If one is worn the other is probably worn too. Sway bar link part #NTC1888.

Stalling Coming to a Stop - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Discovery
Check basic tune state: timing, cap, rotor, ignition wires and fuel filter. Check for any vacuum leaks. Remove the air intake hose and inspect the throttle plate and housing for dirt and carbon. Clean with an air intake and throttle housing cleaner or a good grade of carburetor choke cleaner reinstall intake hose and any other parts removed. Remove the idle air control valve and housing located at the rear of the intake plenum. Remove the valve from the housing. Clean the openings on the housing paying attention to the seating area for the idle air control valve and its’ plunger Install the valve back into the housing and install back on the plenum. Making sure that all gaskets are good. Start engine check operation. Check the base idle. Must be done on a fully warmed engine. Turn off all accessory loads. Connect a tachometer. (Dash one not accurate enough) Clamp off the hose between the throttle housing and the idle speed control housing. The speed should be 525+/- 25 rpm If not remove the plug on the throttle housing and adjust the by pass screw till correct speed is attained. Replace the plug.

Starting Problems - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Discovery
Some 1994 and 1995 Discovery's have had starting problems caused by poor connections at the coil. Replacing the spade connectors with eyelet terminals seems to cure the problem.

You will need five eyelet terminals, 1/4" shrink tube, an 8mm wrench and the tool to cut the wires and crimp on the terminals.
Disconnect the battery (make sure you have the radio code). Remove the wires from one side of the coil at a time to avoid mistakes. Clip the spade connectors off, leaving as much wire as possible. There should be two wires on each post of the coil plus the radio suppressor on the positive side, five wires in all. Strip the wire and slide the shrink tube on. Crimp on the new eyelet terminals. Apply heat to the shrink tube to insulate the connections. Reconnect the terminals to the coil. Reconnect the battery. Re-code the radio.

Steering Wander - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - Range Rover to '93, Discovery, Land Rover Defender
If you experiencing steering wander with your Rover, there are a number of possibilities. Based on our experience, we're listing them here in order of occurrence.
1. Rear trailing arm bushings: to check, get a straight, fairly smooth section of highway, get to about 40 mph then step on the gas and then let off. Repeat several times. If you have to compensate with the steering wheel you probably have bad rear trailing arm bushings. Order part #NRC7491, or get the complete kit by ordering part #9721.
2. Pan hard rod bushing: to check, start the car, open the driver's side window, stand beside the car and move the steering wheel back and forth (about 25 degrees). If you see the front wheels still and the body moving the chances are you have bad pan hard rod bushings. Order part #9000 (and be sure to change the nuts & bolts when doing the job!).
3. Tie rod ends: Check the tie rod ends for play. Always change them in pairs. Order part #RTC5869.
4. Steering box: There is an adjustment screw on the side of the steering box. Loosen the locking pin with an Allen head wrench and turn the large slotted adjusting pin. If the car seems to wander yet the play in the wheel seems normal, the box is probably too tight. Adjust a half-turn at a time.
Transmission - Maintenance
Vehicle - Range Rover, Discovery, Defender
Each time you do maintenance on your Range Rover, Discovery or Defender, be sure to do a quick check of the transmission cooling lines for leakage. These lines are made of steel and corrosion can be a problem. Often it will be seen as seepage on the line or red drops of Dextron on your garage floor that isn't coming from your power steering pump or steering box.
Wheel Removal - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - All
Sometimes this is not as easy as it may seem. The salt can cause enough corrosion to "Bond" the wheel to the hub. If so spray liberal amounts of Electrical Contact Cleaner on the wheel/hub connection. The cleaner should dissolve the corrosion.
Windshield Wipers - Troubleshooting
Vehicle - All
Occasionally, one of the windshield wipers will decide not to work. The problem may simply be that it has loosened and needs to be tightened up a bit. Merely lift the plastic cap on the base of the wiper arm to find a 13mm. nut. Turn the wiper off and adjust the wiper arm to the correct stationary position and tighten the nut. It's not a bad idea to tighten these nuts before you have a problem. If you live in a cold climate, it is also important to clear heavy snow from the window before you turn on the wipers. This will greatly reduce the stress on the wiper motor. It is also important to loosen the wiper blades from the windshield if they are frozen. If the blades are bad, consider changing to winter wiper blades. (Item #PRC6827K) P.S. Don't forget the rear window!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Serpentine belt.jpg (17.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Serpentine Belt D2 wo ace.jpg (28.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Serpentine Belt D2 w ace.jpg (26.9 KB, 2 views)
This forum is not used much... please go to:


Cincinnati OH
http://www.customroveraccessories.com Home of the New D2 horn buttons!

http://www.usarovers.com/ (call for Rover parts ask for Nathan 502-222-5859)

Rover Radio issues or IPOD Adapters http://home.valornet.com/splacket/index.htm

EAS fault http://www.rswsolutions.com

When working with GEMS vehicles. Never try to locate a misfire by pulling plug leads off - pull the injector connector instead. Otherwise you can blow up the ECU.

Secondly never swap ECUs between vehicles to test them, because both vehicles and ECUs may stop working, and you'll have to have them all reset by a franchised LR dealer (ouch!).
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