94 - 96 D1 Fuel pump

[Joey]

I can't remember what forum I got this from:

Pick up a Carter P74006 from your local parts store. I just did my '96 last weekend with this one and it's just plug and play. Plug and polarity are correct and no messing about.

Be careful when you remove the fuel hose from the old pump, mine had a barbed fitting which had stretched the hose too big, so I just replaced it with another piece of fuel hose.

I found this link in searching the D-Web archives:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump.htm

It helped enormously.

[Joey]

More info:

GM part # 25116163 will work. $64.23. It's the pump inards. Comes with the pump itself, various electrical connector that you may or may not use, a couple of o-rings, hose clamps, etc... I only used the pump itself, a new connector, and 2 wires.

[Joey]

This is for those who are interested in getting FP replaced. I guess i should send it to Sam or Andy as tech article , but what the heck.

Pre-history:
I been experiencing awkward stalling from time to time, while running trails in mountains of Colorado. New LR fuel pump assembly did solve some of it, but not all. I done numerous pressure test in garage and it always was ok.

After some thinking and pondering on how things are going i figured that it may be caused by unsufficient flow in fuel line at high altitude. So..

Parts:
Old fuel pump assembly
Borg Waner P39 fuel pump (actually analogue of it, bought from NAPA)
Small hoose clamp (you need whole fuel retainer for real, but my old one was welded to assembly so i went with plan B - cut and clamp)

Assuming you already removed assembly..

0) remove old pump from assembly. Cut fuel retainer (i.e hoose that going on top of fuel pump). Unsolder power leads from plug. Mark which one is positive, which one is negative lead.
1) analyze which wire to to be positive (just assemble plug, and verify it by putting power from battery) and which negative.
2) now just put some heat shrinking sleeves on end of contacts just for the heck of it Optional, as you may guess, but it makes me feel better when contacts surrounded by this stuff.
3) put pump into assembly..
4) press contacts onto leads on upper assembly plug. They fits nicely and snuggly. NOTE: GOT TO BE SNUGGLY! NEVER LEAVE THAT PART BEING LOOSE. YOU DONT WANT SPARK IN YOUR FUEL TANK.
If you feel like being anal - you can solder those ends to leads.
5) put clamp on old retainer or new retainer in place. Either way you need to get those to be REALLY tight.


Now its usual routine of putting pump back, making sure plumbing is tight & etc.

I used P39 b/c it can develop much better flow that original specs pump, and price is anyway about same (75$). If you dont feel like getting adventurious - get Airtex #E3240 or crossreference. It should be 50-70lb, which is above 37lb. P39 should give about 75


Either way it beats buying new assembly for 180$ or more.. Wish i been more brave in first place - would save me some money. Now i got two assemblies